Lucali

"There's no real sign, no slices, no credit cards — just a short menu and a reputation that speaks for itself."

Before it was one of the most talked-about pizzerias in New York, this Henry Street storefront was an actual candy store. Mark Iacono, who grew up in the neighborhood, gutted it down to brick and tin ceiling, put in a wood-fired brick oven, and kept the room small and unfussy on purpose since opening in 2006. It's the kind of place chefs show up to on their own nights off, which says as much about the pizza as any review could.

The menu is short by design — a classic cheese pie or one with a few simple toppings is the move, since the thin, wood-blistered crust and quality ingredients are the whole point. The calzone also has a serious following among regulars if you want something different.

Lucali doesn't take reservations — it's line-based, and the line for dinner can start forming as early as 2pm for a 5pm opening. It's cash only, BYOB with no corkage fee. Come early, bring cash, and bring your own wine or beer if you're planning to drink with dinner.